I have SO enjoyed these last 16 days cycling with Tomasz; it has completely changed my trip through Iran, cos I know it would not have been the same without him. Tomasz has been given a year's 'leave of absence' by his girlfriend back in Poland to do this cycling trip to Vietnam. He is so savvy about cycling, finding accommodation and dealing with people that cycling with him has given me loads of tips on how-to and made me more relaxed travelling through Iran. I was even able to deal with someone exposing himself to me as he went by in the car because I could laugh it off with Tomasz.
We have camped wild and listened to wolves howling at night (quite a few of them and pretty close!). I just held my breath and hoped they would stay away. Amazing what courage a bit of canvas gives you. We also were warned about snakes in our last, urban, campsite - but saw none, thankfully.
We have stayed mostly with families in small villages. We turn up in a village in late afternoon, go to the shop or cycle around and usually get invited to stay in someone's house, where we are fed, watered, sometimes showered, given a room to sleep in with mattresses and blankets.
We travelled for the first couple of days up and over an incredible range of mountains! Breathtakingly dramatic, as much for the unexpectedness of them as for the rock formations themselves. Very cold, but no snow at our level. These were the hardest days for me, cos Tomasz has a habit of cadging lifts with slow-passing lorries on the uphills (one lift was for 15 kms!), which just leaves me struggling up under my own steam. The first time this happened was out of Shiraz. I thought I had seen the last of Tomasz and so resigned myself to going at my own pace. Then, lo and behold, ?2 hours later, there he was, at the top of another mountain, having waited an hour and 10 minutes for me! After that we continued to travel for the next 16 days. And, on the flats, we cycled well together. I have even cadged 3 lifts myself, with VERY amenable drivers.(Children, do NOT try this for yourself; it is EXTREMELY irresponsible and dangerous).
From Shiraz, we went towards Bushehr, but turned left before, as neither of us like big cities. We then followed the Persian Gulf down to BAndar Lengeh, via Kish Island, which is a bit like the Channel Islands: rich and tax free. We managed a discount on the ferry from Bandar Aftab; and whilst cycling past a diving centre, were given 10 minutes free on a jet ski. Now you'd think that if it is your first time on something, you might take it a bit easy at first to get a feel for it, especially if it had a bit of poke to it. Now so, madman Tomasz. He was in the driving seat; I was the counterbalance for the turns on the back seat. Straight out to sea we went, sharp turns left, right, left, right, ooops, no, straight then left again, and now let's turn all the way round and head straight for the shore; ooops, nearly up on the beach, but no, managed to serve away to go zigzagging out to sea again. And so on. I was hanging on for dear life and trying to anticipate which way we were turning. No we didn't capsize. For both of us it was the first time on a jet ski; for me it was also the last. :-) But great to have done it!
We also had free entry into Dolphin Park, camped free on the Women's Plage; and given free passage on the ferry to Bandar Lengeh the next day. If I'd not been with Tomasz, I would have experienced none of this.
We parted company yesterday morning, our 17th day; he to continue to Bam, Zahedan and Pakistan (presumably under police escort because of the troubles in that area); I to continue to Sharjah and the rest of the Emirates. We might meet up in India. It was hard parting, as you might imagine after travelling for so long together.
I bought my ferry ticket to Sharjah, at twice the price given on the internet and at a time that brings me in to Sharjah in time to cycle to Dubai in the dark, instead of early in the morning, as advertised on te internet! Great, eh!
I was taken in by a lovely family for last night and tonight. I sail to Sharjah at 10.30 in the morning. Salim and his large family have given me a great last impression of Iran and I am very glad for that.
My next news update is likely to be from Abu Dhabi, including a few photos.
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