I had thought originally that I should have taken about a week to travel through Syria, but here I am, just over 2 weeks after coming over the border from Jordan (incidentally, I notched up 5000 miles/8000 kms that day), still with 2 or 3 days more before Turkey. Why? Well, because it has been so enjoyable and there have been too many good reasons to tarry and not hurry on straight away to the next port of call.
There are loads of Christian establishments in Syria. I have been staying mainly in monasteries or convents this last week, which has been really special.
Also, just like buses (none for ages and then 2 come along at the same time), I met 2 independent WALKERS on consecutive days. The first one was a Dutch guy , Jan, [don't they just get everywhere! :-) ], 6 months walking, on his way to Damascus and beyond, . We were both staying at this lovely convent between Damascus and Homs. On the morning we parted company, an hour or so later, I espied another walker with a backpack, who turned out to be Norwegian!!! He had been walking 7 months, also on his way to Damascus and beyond!!! We spent 2 1/2 hours by the roadside chatting and eating lunch. He carries a violin with him; and not much else by the looks of his backpack. Jan was the same; very impressive light travellers both. Christian, the Norsk guy, reckoned I was a "really cool woman" to be doing what I'm doing. I was chuffed.
I've stuck largely with the main highway, but occasionally struck off along country roads. A couple of days ago, I ended up going round in a big circle, coming back to the highway and passing the same junction I had come off just 24 hours earlier (another reason, perhaps, why it is taking me longer than originally planned to get through Syria .
I have had wonderful hospitality in Syria. But I also have had 2 rejections of help; both from monastic communities of St George!! But the 3rd encounter with St George redeemed his name. This was after the 2nd rejection and, in need of a bed for the night, I resorted to the St George Hotel over the road, as there did not seem to be anywhere else locally. They were very kind and friendly, gave me a hefty discount and included evening meal and breakfast, plus coffee and finger-of-the-bride biscuits the next morning with the sister and family of the hotel manager. I went back to the St George monastery (btw, it is located near Crac des Chevaliers) and said that it was not right that I was sent away with nowhere to go except the choice of a further 4 hours cycling to another monastery. It fell on deaf ears. But the priest did then mention a church 6 kilometres away at which I could have found accommodation!! I think I hope in vain that future travellers might have a different experience from me.
I spent 2 hours yesterday changing over to the new tyre I bought in Damascus. It is a much bulkier tyre and was pressing up against the mudguard. My bike multi-tool actually isn't it - I've hardly found anything on there that is useful - and so I borrowed an adjustable spanner from one of the 2 monks at the lovely Mar Elias monastery and was able to make enough room for the tyre to spin freely. I also had to adjust the brakes to stop a slight rubbing. It rained all day today and the monastery was on top of a very steep hill. Good timing, I say.
I'm still cycling in sandals, although some mornings in the mountains I have been wearing long (pink) socks as well until late morning when the air becomes warmer.
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